Spotlight works to scout powerful creatives and artists who are changing the game in their field, and give them the hype they deserve.
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Umber Ghauri
Interviewed by: Desiree Nikfardjam
Photo Credits: Aisha Pegley
I always thought that if I set goals for myself and made plans for my future, then I would be happy. More importantly, I would be successful. I would graduate from high school, earn a respectful undergrad, study law, get married, and be happy.
Now that we are living through a pandemic, it seems like all the plans and goals I set for myself have either been stalled or have completely disappeared, never to be seen again. In some ways, I am grateful because it has made me realize that the plans that I laid out for myself are no longer what I want. In my interview with Umber Ghauri, I realized just how important it is to live life freely and to do what it is that we love.
Raised in West London in a Punjabi household, education was very important in Umber’s family. They explain how they had been “bred to be academic.” But after graduating from the Courtauld Institute with an Art History BA, Umber realized that there was more that they wanted to do. For a while, they considered becoming a writer, but realized that makeup was a much more therapeutic outlet. Using their hands and being creative came naturally to Umber.
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Still, they never thought of makeup artistry as a career choice. “I think it’s not something I really thought of as a real option for me because I was doing well at school,” they said. “I didn’t really think about the fact that... it was gonna make me happy not to be so focused on using writing and stuff like that in the future.”
Umber was planning on getting married, and putting their career on the side. However, after deciding not to get married, Umber realized that they no longer wanted to live the life everyone had envisioned for them; go to college, get married, etc. After realizing they didn’t want a career in Art History, they decided to pursue makeup artistry seriously. So Umber went to get their qualifications and certificate to officially begin their business and have been working as a makeup artist and consultant since 2014.
Umber also spoke of the consistent racism they experienced in their academic career. They said, “My degree was amazing, but I dealt with a lot of racism throughout academia and I really didn’t feel like I fit, I really didn’t want to live in a universe where I felt like I never was comfortable or respected.” So working in an environment where they could express and be themselves, as well as uplift others to do the same was important.
Umber added that growing up, they never felt comfortable assigning a gender to themselves and how makeup has been the best outlet for them creatively, since it allows them to present themselves however they want. Umber said that their agender identity has, in ways, enhanced their passion for and creative expression through makeup. They said, “I think it’s made me a better makeup artist because I’m more flexible in terms of [how] other people describe how they want to look or feel.”
I asked Umber what their advice would be for anyone who is struggling with their gender identity to which they responded, 'Just take your time, you know, you don’t have to choose a label, you don’t have to announce anything. Just really get to know yourself.'
I asked Umber what their advice would be for anyone who is struggling with their gender identity to which they responded, “Just take your time, you know, you don’t have to choose a label, you don’t have to announce anything. Just really get to know yourself.” For Umber, interacting with different people and experiences that they never thought they would relate to is where they found the most comfort and freedom. They added, “Until you see what you can be, all these different parts that... you could pursue, you’re just going to feel trapped.”
As for inspirations, Umber said that they were always fascinated by the imagery on television, in movies, and in magazines like Vogue. Having a BA in Art History has also improved Umber’s appreciation of colours, shapes, and textures that they have incorporated in their work. “In terms of artists, I’m inspired by every makeup artist… Pat McGrath was a big inspiration... I stayed up all night, waited to go meet her when she did an event in London a few years ago,” Umber added.
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I later asked Umber if they had any tips or suggestions for people who are looking to pursue makeup artistry: “For anyone who wants to be a makeup artist, I just think they need to not be very focused on things like Instagram and... getting the products that are trendy and stuff like that... it’s actually a huge distraction from your development as an artist... Keep practicing, keep making mistakes… just try and stay focused, because it’s really hard in the age of social media to stay focused on what matters to you.”
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Listening to Umber speak was so inspiring. In some ways, the pandemic has helped me realize that I need to stop focusing so much on the future and just be present in the now. It’s also made me realize I have been planning for a future that doesn’t really reflect my passions anymore. I’ve been so worried about the approval of others, that I haven’t really been building my future, but rather cornering myself into one. Umber has reminded me of the importance of passion, and that is something that I will be channeling more energy into going forward with my studies and career.
Like many of us, Umber, and their business, has been impacted by this pandemic. Umber has been doing virtual consultations and one-on-one sessions; however, it’s been a challenge especially since makeup is a very hands-on job. It’s much harder to teach techniques through a computer, but Umber is dedicated to their work. If you are interested in reaching out to Umber for a tutorial or consultation, they would be more than happy to help!
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Andrea Abeysekara
Author: Ananya Gupta
The concept of identity has always been a daunting and fairly abstract one for me. Growing up in an Indian household while attending a predominantly white school, I felt caught between two worlds which made it difficult to figure out who exactly I was. Many face the challenge of searching for a balance between two distinct and equally valid cultures, and determining what truly represents them. The “brown art world” on Instagram is tackling this collective identity crisis by steadily merging South Asian and North American cultures with fusion pieces that put an inclusive twist on classic characters. Among this community is Andrea Abeysekara, an up-and-coming creator representing South Asian culture and empowering women with her art. In an interview with RANI, Andrea shared her artistic inspirations and aspirations.
After discovering models living in North America “who are unapologetic about being brown,” Andrea was inspired to tap into her own South Asian identity with digital art. As a psychotherapy student at McMaster University in Canada and a social advocate, Andrea believes that identity comes from “having some sort of cause or message that someone believes in.”
She stresses the importance of people representing themselves through advocating for what they believe in however they can. “There’s a lot of people who don’t really say anything when it comes to social issues, or anything that comes up in the news, and that’s not really great,” she noted.
Andrea’s work echoes this sentiment as she ties major social issues and problematic societal norms into her pieces to spark essential conversations. Each drawing is paired with a powerful message regarding various ideas, including feminism, interracial couples, and homophobia. My personal favourite is Andrea’s series on a brown Daenerys Targaryen from Game of Thrones, which features discussions about child marriage, mental health, and sexual assault. She also draws a lot of South Asian women in different contexts, such as Bollywood actress Deepika Padukone as the lead in “Legally Brown,” a twist on the classic movie Legally Blonde.
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A significant area of focus in Andrea’s art has been the Eurocentric beauty standards and patriarchal nature of South Asian culture. Andrea has explored the need to embrace natural beauty and disregard the deep-rooted Eurocentric standards by recreating a photographer’s collage of South Asian women’s noses. Inspired by creators calling out skin-bleaching companies on Instagram, Andrea shed light on the issue with her art. Dedicated to incorporating a lot of skin tones in her work, she fights against the colourist views that are prominent in the community and provides representation for all.
Some of Andrea’s most popular pieces are her South Asian versions of Western cartoon characters. “It’s nice to see like, black Kim Possible, but then also brown Kim Possible along with the typical white Kim Possible,” she explains. She has drawn a vast range of characters from Disney, Pixar, Marvel, and much more. Seeing her versions of Lizzie McGuire in a sari and the Club Penguin avatar in a lehenga, two prominent figures of my childhood, is especially nostalgic. Andrea plans to delve further into both original and superhero characters, including an upcoming South Asian Catwoman.
Using her art for social change remains Andrea’s priority. Currently, a massive social movement has been the farmers’ protests in India, where Punjabi farmers have been peacefully protesting for their agricultural rights. Andrea realized that the phulkari print requested in a commission originated in Punjab and posted it along with information about the protests. She admits that “a lot of the times we use the aesthetic from Punjab… but we don’t talk enough about the social issues that are going on [there].”
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Andrea has also found herself represented in a way she never expected: white people buying her art. She is happy to see that she isn’t “making art for a certain niche, but just that other people also like it.” This is its own form of representation, “that someone has a South Asian drawing on their desk,” showing how simple it can be for people to appreciate other cultures.
Not only is Andrea providing much needed representation and bringing attention to social issues, but she is also focused on raising money for a variety of charity initiatives. Since opening her online store, artbyandreashop, last August, Andrea has donated a part of her proceeds to Black Lives Matter, the NAACP, as well as to charities supporting the Yemen crisis and the Lebanon explosion. She also dedicated the proceeds of her childhood collection of pieces entirely to her city’s Child and Youth Trauma Services Centre. While the lockdown has put a hold on Andrea’s online store, she is eager to start selling prints again, with a new focus on raising money for youth facing homelessness. Andrea’s passion for bringing awareness to current issues through art is truly inspiring.
This month, RANI urges you to think about what identity means to you and discover your own outlet for expressing what your personal message is. How do you represent yourself? Andrea points out that she originally didn’t see herself represented in her own drawings but now finds herself buying the big “trendy brown earrings” she draws and representing her pieces by “putting more fusion into [her] clothes.”
Similarly, I have found an unexpected voice for my own mixed identity here with RANI. As we continue to be deprived of physical interactions, self-expression is more valuable than ever before. Everyone should create what they believe in.
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